Friday, September 17, 2010

The Dolomites


Having surpassed the four year mark of my time living here in Europe, I must say that I have encountered more than my fair share of beautiful places. From the sandy beaches of the Latvian coast to the rolling hills of Scotland dotted with bleating flocks of sheep, there is a diversity of travel experience awaiting anybody brave enough to venture through the circus tents that double as rural airports, or the archaic train stations of the former communist bloc. (why is it spelled with one "r" anyway?)

What has been missing from this traveler's dossier was a trek through some quintessentially Tyrollean mountain landscapes, the kind of territory associated with felt hats, high top leather hiking boots, and the cries of Ricola! After living near the always accessible highlands of majestic Idaho for seven years, I had an itch for the kind of views that make one's butt cheeks clench in fear, peaks of such colossal enormity they make you wish you had wings and a case of Red Bull. Like this guy.

The daunting task of planning such a trip, from the lengthy gear list to plotting our route from four star refugios to lung burning precipices and back down again, fell on the meticulously capable (read: OCD) hands of my former endurance sport compatriot, Jen Stover from Boise. All I had to do was find out which budget airline would get me near the Italian province of Belluno, two hours north of Venice. That and purchase all of the stuff on the aforementioned lengthy gear list so I wouldn't look like a total newb and embarrass my gearhead friends. Not the type of gearheads that my brothers are, with at least four snowmobiles, two motorcycles, a four-wheeler, and a coffin hoist in the garage, but the type of adventure seeker who owns three different Gore-tex windbreakers lined with polypropylene, titanium trekking poles, a variety of backpacks, all equipped with hydration systems, and shock-proof digital cameras that are water-proof to a depth of 100 meters.

Just for some perspective, here's the list Jen sent me:

Pack -midsize
bladder - camel back type
harness
leather or cycling type gloves
2-3 locking carabiners
3-4 18 inch tethers/slings
Pack towel
small headlamp
trekking poles
gaiters - to keep small rubble & rocks out of shoes
short sleeve wicking shirt
long sleeve wicking shirt or Hind Type
cycling arm warmers
compression / running shorts
over shorts ( hiking type with pockets)
underwear
socks - 5 pair
tights or long pants
waterproof windbreaker jacket
beanie
gloves
light weight fleece
trail shoes
sleep sheet
small dop kit > contact lenses, eyeglasses, deoderant, soap, toothbrush etc
blister kit / 1st aid

*Jen also packed her husband, Nic, and adventure racing teammate, Brad, who is also trained in mountain search and rescue. A good guy to bring along in case you fall off a cliff and shatter a femur or need any extra gear since he brings two of everything.

To further complicate matters, Wizzair (for my favorite cheap flights) only allows 10 kg (22 lbs) for a carry-on, or else you pay and extra 50 Euro to check your bag upon arrival at the airport. Wearing the same clothes for seven straight days of gut-busting hikes leaves one emanating the same odors as the display case at a French cheese shop. No, that's not Mimolette cheese you smell, it's Fromunda Bleu. (ask your nearest teenager to explain that joke if you don't get it)

This latest adventure far surpassed my lofty expectations, in terms of astonishing scenery, mouthwatering cuisine, and the animated jocularity and storytelling that ensues when old friends reunite. To share this expedition with some fellow thrill seekers from back in the Boise years, the previous chapter in my book of life, made it that much more satisfying. Here's to hoping we can do it again sooner rather than later.

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