It's okay . . . I'm with the band.

Last week, I had the good fortune to take a trip to Bucharest, Romania as a chaperone at the CEESA (Central Eastern European Schools Association) band festival. As you can imagine, band kids don't get into a lot of trouble so this was a nice trip to see a different city with 4 Korean students along for the ride. The band director did all the work. I was just there to carry the first aid kid, school phone, and camera.

Bucharest is a city stuck between new economic opportunity and the old communist system. This is reflected in the ever-widening gap between the wealthy and impoverished. Where else can you see a horse and buggy, Frank Loyd Wright inspired mansions, a boy leading an ox on a rope, and a Porsche dealership all within a two block stretch. There was also garbage strewn across vast fields that will soon be dotted with upscale, art-deco style villas.

I had been told that Bucharest is a glimpse of Warsaw 15 years ago. Now I can see why people have this notion that the Polish capital is a bleak, gray metropolis. Like Poland though, Romania's countryside has remained relatively unspoiled by industry and political turmoil. It was also the setting for scenes from the movie "Borat". In fact, the village where it was filmed is now suing him, but I do believe the case has already been thrown out.

There are redeeming qualities in every city I visit, but it was quite difficult to find the true beauty of Romania's capital. They have yet to tear down any of the old "Commie Bloc" highrises to make room for modern architecture. Everything also seems to have this perpetual coating of grime and mildew. It seems like the reign of former dictator Nicolai Ceausescu has left quite the hangover.

For those asleep during 1989, and not familiar with the Ceausescu regime, a fascinating synopsis can be found here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nicolae_Ceau%C5%9Fescu

Copy and paste it into your browser if for no other reason than to read about him and his wife being executed on Christmas Day by an army officer's sub-machine gun. You can also watch his last speech from the Palace balcony on youtube.com

Romania is also home to the world's second largest building (then Pentagon is no. 1).
Ceausescu leveled over 6,000 homes, dozens of churches, and all of Old Town Bucharest to make room for this monstrosity, the People's Palace. Anything I write cannot fully do justice to the shameful history behind the construction of this monument to a megalomaniac (awesome alliteration, alright?). You can read about why Romanians call this the "Palace of Lies" here:

http://home.xnet.com/~jkelley/BucharestBugle.fldr/BuchBugle19-20.html

Bucharest also has a bit of a dog problem. Driving out to the school from the city centre, I would see strays everywhere, roaming in packs or resting lazily by the side of the road. I had brought my running shoes, but opted for the treadmill in the hotel fitness center instead of putting my gonads up as doggie treats, so to speak.

My last evening in town gave me a newfound appreciation for Romania. The activities director at AISB (American International School of Bucharest) formerly worked at ASW. He was nice enough to arrange a night on the town with Maria, one of the local hires, and a few of her friends.

I've always had a certain affectation for Nadia Comaneci, but the Romanian beauties encountered while exploring the nightlife of Bucharest scored an 11, besting Nadia's perfect 10 at the 1976 Olympics. Offering a compliment to my guide, she declared Romanian women to be "the most beautiful in the whole world". This is now the fourth country where I've heard that claim. Let it never be said that Eastern European women lack self-confidence.

My first three days in Bucharest had convinced me that I would not be making a return visit anytime soon, but I might have been a little too hasty in my judgement . . .

Do widzenia . . .

Mark